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How To Choose the Radon Mitigation Kit for Your Project

Finding high radon levels in your home can be a bit scary, but don’t panic—it’s a fixable problem. The most effective solution to radon invasion is installing a mitigation system to pull that soil gas out from under your foundation.

Of course, staring at a catalog of fans and pipes can feel overwhelming (kind of like trying to build a spaceship in your garage). This guide is here to help you choose the ideal radon mitigation kit for your project.

Understanding Radon Mitigation

Radon mitigation isn’t about scrubbing the air inside your living room; it’s about stopping the gas from entering in the first place through a process called active soil depressurization. Think of your house like a giant vacuum cleaner that sucks up soil gas through foundation cracks, which the pressure difference between your home and the ground causes.

A mitigation system short-circuits this relationship by using a fan to create a stronger vacuum under the house, capturing the radon and venting it safely above your roofline. Because every home interacts with the soil differently, factors like your foundation type and soil density (gravel vs. clay) will ultimately dictate which kit is right for your specific project. These packages should work most of the time for homes with long term levels under 6 pCi/L. We always recommend a radon professional, especially if your levels are higher than that. PDS cannot take returns on radon fans so be sure to read our full warranty terms and conditions (at the bottom of this page) before buying.

A close-up of a hand holding a yellow and black radon air quality tester with "4 PCI/L" on the screen.

Types of Radon Mitigation Kits

Since no two homes are exactly alike, there is no “one size fits all” radon fan kit you can grab off the shelf. Instead, kits fall under categories relating to the type of foundation penetrations or suction points required.

Suction Pit Radon Mitigation Package

For homes with a solid concrete slab foundation—whether it is a basement or a slab-on-grade—a suction pit package is the standard solution. This method involves drilling a hole through your concrete floor to access the soil beneath.  Many DIYers believe this is the only radon system design.  Despite it being very common it’s typically a last resort.  Radon pros always look for existing air pathways before building a new one.

You use this type of kit when you have a poured concrete floor and good aggregate (like gravel) underneath. The goal is to create a “suction pit” that’s removed 15-25 gallons of dirt and debris (think 3-5 home depot buckets). This pit acts as a collection chamber for soil gases. You want to pick a perimeter location for your pit.  Wider is better than deeper.  See our detailed DIY video here.

Sump Pit Radon Mitigation Package

If your basement already has a sump pump system to manage water, you might have a ready-made pathway for radon mitigation. A sump pit package utilizes your existing drainage system as the suction point. This kit is for when you want to avoid drilling a new hole in your foundation. However, the critical component here is the seal.

A unsealed, standard plastic lid isn’t enough. Sealing a sump lid means creating an airtight seal around all penetrations (such as the discharge pipe and power cords) and the edges of the pit. If the lid isn’t airtight, the radon fan will just suck conditioned air out of your basement instead of pulling radon from the soil, wasting energy and killing the system’s efficiency.

You also need to be sure that your dewatering system is functioning properly. If this pit does not have a drain collection system, or if that system is filled with water, then it cannot act as a radon mitigation extraction point. You cannot pull radon gas through a water trap. Always solve your water issues before you design your radon system.

Crawlspace Radon Mitigation Package

Homes with exposed dirt crawlspaces pose a unique challenge because there is no concrete barrier to prevent gas from entering. In this scenario, you cannot just suck air from the dirt; you must first encapsulate it.  These systems are the most labor intensive and for some reason radon pros charge the least for them (read here).  You can save a lot of headaches by have a radon contractor do your crawlspace to ANSI AARST standards.

You choose a crawlspace package when dealing with large earth floors. First, install a gas collection system, typically soil gas mat or perforated piping. Then lay down a high-density plastic vapor barrier over the entire dirt floor and sealing it to the walls. Use a French connection to connect your sub-membrane soil gas collection loop to the solid core schedule 40 PVC above. The fan creates a vacuum between the earth and the plastic, drawing the gas out before it can seep into the living areas above.

If your crawlspace is not tall enough for a contractor to physically fit inside and seal, then you have the unfortunate need of an air exchange system (read here).  These systems typically cost 5-10X as a traditional system.  While effective when sized properly, they also cost much more to run over time.  Larger wattage appliances and more air treatment lead to a larger utility bill; sometimes it’s the only option left since the builder didn’t build radon-ready.

Low-Voltage Radon Mitigation Systems

Sometimes, the hardest part of installation isn’t the plumbing—it’s the electrical work. Standard radon fans require 110V power, which typically means hiring an electrician to run a new circuit to your attic or exterior wall.  Standards dictate hardwired fans need to be in conduit and have a locking switch cover to avoid accidental “turn-offs”.  Class II Low-voltage systems, like the KTA, simplify this process with “plug and play” fans that use a power supply box plugged into a standard outlet inside your home. A low-voltage cable then connects to the fan, outside the home’s thermal envelope, saving time and money by avoiding costly electrical work and permits.  Due to the low voltage, most US electrical codes allow for this installation by an unlicensed pro.

A graphic illustration of a magnifying glass examining a picture of a house detailing how radon gas enters from the ground.

Step-by-Step Guide to Selecting a Kit

Now that we understand more about the different kinds of kits, how do you choose the best radon mitigation system for your project? Follow these steps to determine what type of radon mitigation system your home requires.

  • Test Your Radon Levels

Start with a reliable radon test to confirm your levels. If levels are extremely high, you may need a more powerful fan or multiple suction points. Always consult with a pro.

  • Assess Your Foundation

Examine your foundation. Check if you have drain tile or gravel under the slab. Walk around your basement or crawlspace and map out where a pipe could logically run from the floor to the roof.

  • Choose the Right System Type

Depending on your foundation analysis, select the appropriate system. For homes with a sump pump, the Sump Pit Package is usually the easiest option. For solid slab foundations, plan for the Suction Pit Package.

  • Review Kit Components

Compare the components of each kit. Make sure the fan is suitable for your square footage and soil type. Avoid cheaper kits that may include lower-quality fans or flimsy piping materials.

Installation Considerations

When it’s time to install your radon mitigation kit, hiring a professional is the safest and most effective approach. A pro has the right tools and expertise for the job—things like rotary hammer drills, concrete core bits, and the know-how to handle them safely. Hiring a certified radon mitigator eliminates the risks associated with cutting through concrete slabs, penetrating your roof for ventilation, and wiring electrical components. They understand the specific building codes and radon standards, so they can install your radon kit correctly the first time. Always ask if they perform pressure field testing. This is a surefire way to tell a real pro from an untrained one.

One major installation challenge is getting power to the fan. Radon fans must be outside the thermal envelope of your home (e.g., attics or exterior walls). To prevent safety hazards, international radon standards limit power cords to just six feet in attics and garages. A professional can handle the electrical work properly and even install a low-voltage system, like the KTA 2.0.

Finding the Right Solution for Your Home

Finding and installing a radon mitigation kit is a decision that directly affects your household’s long-term health. By identifying your foundation type, understanding the mechanics of soil depressurization, and selecting high-quality components such as appropriate fans and reliable sealing materials, you can take control of your indoor air quality.

Whether you need a suction pit package, a sump pump seal, or a low-voltage exterior fan, the goal is always the same: get the gas out of the ground before it hits your lungs. At PDS Radon Supply, we have the professional-grade kits and expertise to help you do exactly that. Take a moment to assess your home’s layout, then head over to our shop to find the right system for your specific foundation. Let’s get that radon out of your living space and keep your family breathing easy!

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